


m 



THE 



§® 



A WORK 



Desioned for the Advancement of Cutters, 



IN THE 



ART OF CUTTING, 



AND THE 



KNOWLEDGE OF MAKING CUSTOM CLOTHING, 



WITH PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS 



INVALUABLE TO EVERY CUTTER. 




PROVIDENCE, R. I. 



SI, 



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x\ 



,h'' 



V. 



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k 



- PREFACE 



In placing this work before the fraternity, 1 am actuated more by 
a desire to assist others over the rough and expensive road of ex- 
perience than by a desire for personal gain. 

I have given the result of years of practical experience; avoided 
mere theories, and have giyen only those principles which I have 
used in my own cutting with the most satisfactory results. 

The diagrams illustrating the principles set forth have been pre- 
pared under my personal super\'ision, with the utmost care, and are 
well calculated to furnish accurate instructions even to the voun<'-est 
cutters. 

In preparing this work, it has not been my design unnecessarily to 
elaborate the different articles. I have endeavored rather to make 
all explanations simple, clear and condensed, entering into details 
where necessary, but omitting all superfluous matter. My aim has 
been to make my work so clear that all who may read it will be 
benefitted and advanced in the art of cuttino-. 

In allowing this book to go from my hands, I am convinced that 
it supplies a need which has long been felt anions^ the trade. 



Measuring 



This is the most important part of successful cutting, and too much 
care cannot be taken in this particular, for if you do not have the 
correct measure, how can you give your customer a perfect fitting 
garment? Cutters, as a rule, are not careful enough in taking the 
measures, and lay the blame of a badly fitting garment to the system; 
whereas, a little care and judgment exercised in measuring, would 
produce the most gratifying results. 

During my visits among the trade, I find a great many cutters who 
persist in measuring over the coat. This, in my practice, has always 
proved unsatisfactory. The great difficulty is the uncertainty arising 
Irom the measures so taken, since the coats measured over may be too 
thick or too thin, excessively wadded, or too deep in the scye, there- 
lore, making it impossible to get a uniform surface to measure over. 
Taking the above into consideration, I certainly advise taking the 
measures over the vest, except for an overcoat. 

I also find in using an instrument like the diagram on page 8, that 
it aids me greatly in taking the "short blade," "the length of strap," 
"front breast," and "height of shoulder" measures correctly, and would 
recommend its use. 



The Use and Application of the Ui)pcr Shonlder 

Measure. 



In my experience I tind forms measuring the same breast that 

require a shallower or deeper arm scye, and I make use ol" this 

measure to locate the depth of scye, which, in practice, I tind 
infallible. 

For example, a form may measure oG breast and 2tlr| upper shoulder. 
By referring to schedule on page 7, you will tind 245 I'cquires a \)\ 
depth of scye. Again, a form may be o() breast and 27 upper shoulder. 
By referring to same schedule, you will tind 27 to require 10 inches 
depth of scye, indicating a long neck, or stooping shoulders. There- 
fore, as this measure locates the depth of scye, and by comparison 
with the breast, shows whether shallow or deep. 



Measuring Instrument. 

This instrument is easily made from brass or steel. Arm A and B 
4 inches long. Arm C 5> inches long. 

Three nobs, as per diagram on page 8, on which attach inch tapes 
about 21 inches long. 

I place it under the left arm quite snug, and use strap A to obtain 
the length of strap (or from front of scye to socket bone.) Tape B 
to get the short blade (or from Iront of scye to centre of back.) 
Tape C to get measure trom front of scye to the front. I also use 
tape A to get the height of shoulder, measuring trom front of scye 
over the shoulder to a mark G inches down the back trom the socket 
bone. 



G 



Schedule on Page 7. 



This is a schedule of proportions which, by experience, I tind 
correct, and easily committed to memory, and by so doing will 
greatly aid you in all your measures. For instance, if you should 
learn it, and 3'ou measure a form 30 inches upper shoulder measure, 
and he stands normal, you would know he ought to measure 12^ 
inches blade and 13^ strap. But if he stoops, you would then know 
he would require less strap and more blade than the proportion, and 
if he was erect, would require more strap and less blade. 

Again, if you measure a form 38 inches breast, you would know 
the normal upper shoulder measure would be 27'1 inches. But, if 
it measured 204, it would indicate higher shoulders and a shallow 
scye; whereas if it was 29^ upper shoulder, it would indicate low 
shoulders, or a deep scye. Again, I say it is of great importance 
that you should hnow how your measures should run for the form 
measured. 



Schedule of Proportions. 



UPPER 
SHOULDER, 


DEPTH OF 

SCYE. 


BREAST. 


BLADE. 


STRAP. 


21 1 


84 


30 


sj- 


10^ 


22i 


8J 


31 


9J 


lOf 


231 


85 


32 


9i 


11 


24 


<) 


33 


"'8 


111 


24f 


94 


34 


104 


lU 


25,1 


9J 


35 


lOi 


iif 


261 


OJ 


30 


lOf 


12 


27 


10 


37 


11 i 


12i 


27| 


lOi 


38 


Hi 


124 


28i 


lOi 


39 


111 


12f 


29i 


lOf 


40 


12 


13 


30 


11 


41 


121 


13i 


30| 


111 


42 


i2i 


134 


31i 


llj 


43 


13 


13| 


32S 


llf 


44 


13i 


14 



8 






^^% 








9 

Measures for Body Coat. 



First. — l^ppcr shoulder, taken Irom socket bone A, under arm back 
to starting point, taken quite snug. 

Second. — Natural waist to B, (or most hollow part of waist.) 

TiiiKi). — Full length ot' waist to C. 

Fourth. — Full length of coat. 

Fii'-Jii. — Width of back from D to E. 

Sixth. — Continue to elbow. 

Se\'ENTH. — Full length of sleeve. 

Eighth. — Breast. 

Ninth. — Waist. 

Tenth (ivith instnuneni^ — Short blade measure, from front of scye 
to centre of back F. 

Elkventh {luith instrument.^ — Strap measure, from front of scye to 
socket bone A. 

Now, in taking these two last measures, which with care you can 
take correctly, the form of the customer is obtained, whether stooping 
or erect, full or flat blade, and by committing the schedule on page 7 
to memory, as before advised, and, glancing at the customer, you can 
see at once whether you are measuring correctly or not. 

• I also take a measure which I shall treat on separately, called 
the height of shoulder measure, which can be used with this or any 
other system. (See Diagram 14.) 

We will assume the followinir measures to draft a body coat from: 
Upper shoulder, 2(4; natural waist, 17; full waist, 19; full length of 
coat, o2; width of back, 7.]; to elbow, 20; full length of sleeve, 31; 
breast, oG; waist, 32; blade, 10|; strap, 12. 



10 




11 

Draft for Body Coat. 



06 breast, 32 waist, 2(\\ upper shoulder, \i)'\ blade, 12 strap. First 
draw line from A to D. From A to B is '•>:] inehes, the depth of 
scyc the upper shoulder measure draws, as per sehedule on page 
7. Square across, from B to E is j of breast. E to F is i. F 
to G 1 inch. B to H is .] of breast, and 2\ inches. I is half the 
distance between F and H. Square up from I. I to J is 12 inches, 
(the strap measure.) J to K is l-(», or same width as top of back. 
A to C is natural waist. A to D is full length of waist. L is half 
the distance between A and B. M is half the distance between A 
and L. L to is i. O O to N is 1-12. A to O I is 1-0, or to 
fiincy. C to O is .4, or to fancy. Form back, as per diagram. 
A A is 1 inch above N. From K draw a line to M. Now form 
your scye. Take out a seam at U. W is f-inch below the line 
from K to M. K to W is the same as A A to O I. O to P is 
1\ inches in all cases. Form back sidebody. S is found by sweep- 
ing from bottom of back, using U as a pivot. We now apply our 
waist measure from C to R, allowing 3^ inches over. Y is lound 
from sweeping from H, using B as a pivot. V is l-() down irom K 
for D. B. Frock. T is found from a sweep from S, using K as a 
pivot. Z is 14 inches up from S. Draw a line from T to Z, 
which forms the bottom of forepart. Divide sidebody at E or to lancy. 
Take out i inch at Q. Finish as per diagram. 



12 




13 

Draft for Stooping Form. 



A stooping form requires the following changes from the normal 

figure: First — A longer and wider back. Second — A shorter strap, 

a longer blade, more distance from B to G, less distance from G 
to H, and less spring at S. 

We will assume the following for our measures: •'»(') breast, o2 waist, 
'24| upper shoulder. Hi blade, Hi strap. Our upper shoulder measure 
gives us a shallow size. Our strap measure a short shoulder. The 
blade measure a longer and wider back, more distance trom B to G, 
and less from G to H. 

We will now proceed to draft our coat. Draw line- from A to D. 
From A to B is depth of sc3'e, Oj inches (what the upper shoulder 
measure draws, as per schedule on page 7.) From B to E is j oi 
breast. E to NF is J of breast. B to H is .] of breast and 2\ inches. 
N I is half wa}' between N F und H. We now compare our blade 
measure with the normal for 30 breast, as per schedule on page 7, 
and we find that our measure is | of an inch ///ore than the normal, 
so we carr}- N F forward '| of an inch to F, and N I forward the 
same to |, and A up and in i f/ie distance, (^ of an inch) to A. G 
is 1 inch from F. From A to Q is natural waist. A to D is full 
length of waist. A to O I is 1-0 or to fancy. C to O is i- L '^ 
half way between A and B. M is half wa\- between A and L. L 
to O O is J. O O to N is 1-12, and half as much more as you go 



15 

up and in at A. Form the back, as per diagrann A A is 1 inch above 
N. From I to J is Hi inches (the strap measure taken.) J to K 
is l-(), or the width of back. K to V is 1-G for D. B. Frock. Y 
is tbund by sweeping from H, using a point | of an inch aboNc B 
(or the same distance as you go up at A) for a pivot. Draw hne 
from K to M and form the shoulder. W is :| inch below the line. 
K to W is the same length as from A A to O I. From O to P is 1^ 
inches in all cases. Form sidebody, as per diagram, taking out more 
seam at U than for normal tigure. Apply waist measure from C to 
R, allowing 3| inches over. S is from a sweep from the bottom of 
back, using U as a pivot. T is found by sweeping from S, using K 
as a pivot. Z is 1^ inches from S. Draw line from T to Z, 
which forms bottom of forepart. Divide sidebody at E or to fancy. 
Take ^ inch out at Q and do not spring much at S. The dotted 
lines show the normal figure. 



1() 




17 



Draft for the Erect Fioure. 



In the erect form the following changes are necessar}- from the 
normal figure. First — A shorter and narrower back, a longer strap, 
a shorter blade, giving less distance from B to G^ and more from G 
to H, and with more spring at S. 

We will assume the following measures: of) breast, o2 waist, 27 
upper shoulder, 10 blade, 12^ strap. Our upper shoulder measure 
gives us a deep scye. Our strap measure, a long shoulder. Our 
blade measure, a shorter and narrower back, less distance from B to 
G, and more from G to H. 

We will now proceed to draft. First — Draw line AD. From A to 
B is 10 inches, the depth of scye the upper shoulder measure 
draws, (as per schedule on page 7.) From B to E 4 of breast. 
E to N F J of breast. B to H 2 the breast and 2J inches. N I is 
half the distance between N F and H. We now compare our blade 
measure (10 inches) with the normal 36 breast (which is lOj inches), 
as per schedule on page 7, and we find that our measure is |-inch less. 
So we come back from N F to F j-inch, and the same from N I to 
I, and down and out J the distance (| of an inch) at A. G is 1 inch 
from F. From A to C is the natural waist. A to D is full length of 
waist. A to O I is 1-6, or to fancy. Q to O is g or to fancy. L is half 



19 

the distance Irom A to B. M is half the distance from A to L. L 
to O O is ^. O O to N is 1-12 less (half the distance you come 
down at A.) Form the back, as per diagram. A A is 1 inch above 
N. From I to J is 12J inches (the strap measure taken.) J to K 
is 1-6, or the width of back at A. K to V is 1-6 for a D. B. 
Frock. Y is found by a sweep from H, using a point as much below 
B as you go down at A, or § of an inch for a pivot. Draw line from 
K to M and form your shoulder. K to W is the same distance as 
from A A to O I. W is I of an inch below the line. From O 
to P is 1\ inches in all cases. Form sidebody as per diagram, taking 
nothing out at U (for an erect figure.) Apply waist measure 32, from 
C to R, allowing 3f inches over. S is from sweeping from bottom of 
back, using U as a pivot. T is found by sweeping from S, using K as a 
pi\-ot. Z is IJ inches up from S. Draw line from T to Z, which forms 
the bottom of forepart. Divide sidebody at E or to fancy. Take 
^-inch out at Q. Spring the sidebody a little more at S than for a 
normal figure. ■ The dotted lines show the normal figure. 



20 




21 



Draft for Sack Coat. 



The sack and overcoat are drafted the same as a frock coat, with 



the following changes: — 



Measure for an overcoat over the coat. In drafting, make width 
of back at Z -J of breast, or to fancy. Hollow the back at natural 
waist C, i-inch. Take out ^-inch at U, and |-inch at 4. The 
spring is found by measuring down from A '3(> inches in all cases, and 
in from 2 to P o inches. Have line from U intercept P in all cases. 
The length of front is found from sweeping from 2 back to 3, using 
U as a pivot. Then sweeping from 3, using K as a pivot. For 
close fitting sacks take nothing out at U, but a V under arm, as per 
dotted lines in diagram. Front line is found by squaring down from 
H for normal figure, and ^-inch over for every inch the waist over- 
runs the proportion waist. 



22 




Directions for Measuring Sleeves. 



First. — Lay your pattern out as drafted, and measure from A 
(which is 1 inch up from C) to B, for the under side sleeve, which we 
will say is 8.^ inches; then the balance of scye, which we will say is 
17 inches; then from B down to line C (which gets the depth of the 
under side), which say is 5 inches. But as this would cut an under 
side "too dead" a lit, and to allow for the swinging and raising of the 
arm, I cut it i-inch less in all cases, so the measure would be 4^ 
instead of 5 inches. Our measures now read: 8^, 17, 4:^; width of 
back, 7i; elbow, 20; full length, 31. 



To Draft Sleeve. 



First. — Draw line A K; From A to B is J of scye (17.) From 
B to C is 4 of sc}'e, square across from A to B and down from B 
to I. From A to D is the depth of under side, 4J inches, and li 
inches in all cases. From D to E is the depth of under side, 4J 
inches. From D to F is 1 inch, square across from E. From F to 
G is the length of under side, 8.^ inches, and .^-inch for fullness. 



23 



Form under side as per diagram, taking care not to hollow too much 
at O. Now form top side from F through C to H, allowing li 
inches for fullness, or any amount you wish. To get the length of 
sleeve, allow the width of back, and measure from H to |, and con- 
tinue to J for full length. Square across from line A K, from K to 
J. From K to L is IJ inches. L to J is ()h inches, or to fancy. 
Hollow sleeve at R J-irich, or to fanc}'. In cutting small sleeves, 
always touch at I, and make them smaller from the in seam. 
m o < 




24 




Collars. 



In the first place a collar must be cut to fit the gorge, to insure 
success. 

First. — Draw line from D to where you wish the coat to roll; 
continue line to G. From G drop J-inch to H. Form as per diagram, 
and cut collar ^ long. Collars should be stretched at E about f-inch, 
and shrink the crease in well. Collars should be put on fair across 
the back, i-inch easy from D to A, and a trifle snug from A to O, 
thereby causing the collar to lay nicely to the neck and close to the 
breast. It is essential to have the front edge stay run up the front, 
into the gorge to A, holding in from A to B about .}-inch. 



25 



The Ileieht of Shoulder. 



The onl\- infallible way to obtain the eorreet heioht of shoukU r is 
b}^ taking an extra measure for it in the followino- manner, whieh ean 
be applied to any s^^stem with perfect success: Measure from tin' 
socket bone down the back (1 inches and make a mark. Then meas- 
ure from the front of scye over the shoulder to this mark, and in ap- 
plying it to your pattern, put point of back 01 to K (the shoulder 
point), and measure from G to 6 (Diagram 14), allowing 1 inch for 
make-up. This gives the correct height. The svstem will give it nine 
times out of ten, but for extra high or extremely low, it will be as well 
to take this extra measure, and be on the safe side. 



20 



Dia.A 




J.i 



Skirt ^c: Frcck Coat. 



First. — Draw line O A. Then square aeross rrt)m O. From O to 
B is IS inehes in all cases. From B to C is l-j inch in all cases. 
Draw line from O, through C to D. From O to E is the \vidth of 
lapel. From E to F is the amount of fullness you wish to allow in 
the skirt. Now lay your fore part and side body on the line. Drop 
side body at S i-i"^!'^ below the line, and tit the skirt to the forepart 
and side body in this* position. The spring is obtained by a line 
drawn in harmony with the side body from. G to S, and adding .]-inch 
at K, ^vhich round must be pressed back. H is the length of skirt to 
measure, and A is the same distance from O, as H is from S. 



28 




29 



Skirt for Ciitawav Coat. 



Lay the forepart and side body in the positi()n as drafted, and form 
the top of skirt from S to T to tit forepart. Then pivot the side body 
at S, and let E sHde in 1 ineh to B, and then ^L^^et tlie spring-, same 
as frock, in unison with the side body in this position. S to A is 
the length of skirt. T to C is the same. Draw line from C to A, 
and form skirt to fancy. For corpulent or stooping figures, take out a 
V at T, as per dotted line, but for normal ;ind erect figures, cut to tit 
the forepart. 



30 




31 

Pant System, 



First. — Draw constructicn I'r.? A ;'^., From B to C, the outside 
length, 41. From C to D is i the leg, (and 1^ inehes in all eases.) 
C to E, the inside seam, 31. E to F, i hip, F to G, .]-ineh. G 
to H, ^ hip. I and J is .^-inch forward and back trom H. K is ^ hip 
from C. L is li inches from K, in all cases. Draw line from L through 
G to M. From M to O is i of waist. Make ^vidth of bottom from 
K to N to fancy, or 7.] inches. Finish forepart as per diagram, cutting 
outside dress line with little curve as possible, and inside dress line 
considerable. 



Under Side 



Continue lines I , 2 and 3. From H to P, ^. G to R, J. Draw 
line from H through R to S. S is 3 inches above line. Form width 
of knee and bottom to measure. ^ on outside and f^ on inside. Q is i-inch 
lower than a sweep from U J, pivoting at V. Finish as per diagram, 
taking out V and allowing 2 inches over waist measure from M O 
and S T, allowing for V. I cut my foreparts .>-inch short from knee 
down, and ha\e them stretched, keeping the pants from swinging back 
at bottom when walking. The same reason I come down i-inch at Q 
is to clean out mv fork. On small leg I always cut a calf on out- 
side, and especially so if customer stands erect. Alwavs ha\e a sta}' 
on inside bottom of back-part from seam to seam, drawn in A to 
!|-inch. This also keeps pants from ''kicking" out behind. 



^^) 




33 

Vest Draft. 

♦-••■• 

DIAGRAM 10. 

First. — Draw line A A. From O to B is h the breast and .^-inch. 

to C is the natural waist. B to D i breast and 1 inch. B to E i 
breast, and 2 inches. E to F 4 of breast. F to G h breast. O to P 
l-() of breast. O to H 1-6 breast. O to J ^ breast. H to I ^ and 

1 inch. Draw line from G to J. G to K is .^-inch less than from P 
to I. K is i-inch below line. Square down from D to L, and for the 
normal figure take the diflerence between breast and waist (2 inches) 
out at Q, ^ on each side of line. Square down from E for front, and 
sweep up from E, using B as a pivot for breast line above E. Form 
back as per diagram. 



For the Disproportions. 



For an erect figure, shorten the back, lengthen the strap and bring 
G and K back, same as in the erect form. For stooping figure, length- 
en the back, shorten the strap, etc., same as tor stooping form, being care- 
ful, if small waist, ?iot to change front breast line at waist. For a cor- 
pulent figure, take only 1 inch out at Q, and give the balance of waist 
measure on the front. Keep the front as straight as possible, and take 
out a V at O to bring the bottom of vest into the form. Do not 
change the front breast line at waist, tor small waists, under any cir- 
cumstance. (See Corpulent Forms.) 



D,- 



000 



34 



B. 



K 



0- 



DialO 






\ 



H 




\ I 



\i 



J ~"~-» 



I I 






35 



Vest Cut from the Coat Pattern. 



Lay 3^our coat pattern on the paper, as dralted, and mark around it, 
and make the changes as per diagram. 

I cut all my vests, where I have the coat pattern, in this manner, 
and for those who wish only a vest and I do not ha\e their coat meas- 
ure, I cut it from a set of blocks I ha\e drafted from the system on 
page 32, and make what slight changes are necessary to conform to 
customer's shape. In all mv vests I cut the shoulder from D to C 
|-inch shorter than from E to B, and have it stretched at O O O. 
Always have a stay basted on to the back lining from E to B, so that 
it will keep its shape, as, being on the bias, it is very easy for the 
maker to stretch it. 



36 



HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.— (See Page 25.) 




Corpulent Forms. 



I consider the normal form will measure 4 inches smaller at waist 
than at breast, and in changing the draft for a corpulent form I advo- 
cate carrying the shoulder point K backward g of an inch for every 
inch the waist overruns the proportion. 

Example. — Suppose our customer measures 40 breast and 40 waist. 
In this case the waist is 4 inches larger than the proportion. Conse- 
quently I would come back from K 4-8, or i-inch. 



37 



How to Examine a Coat when Finished. 



First and most important of all is to see that there is facing 
enough from G to K and J ; also across the shoulders and back. See 
that a plete is left at sidebody seam as well as at back, and that }ou 
have length of linings enough from A to D, and from under the 
scye to the waist, remembering that an easy inside gives a smooth 
out. Next, that the collar is on right. If too short, the coat will 
not button up well to the highest button intended, or the leaf will 
roll up and show the gorge seam. If too long, it will bulge at sides 
and look full. (See Dia. 16.) Next, see that the sleeves hang well, not 
too forward or backward, and that the fullness is worked in the right 
place, neither too high or too low. See that the sleeve linings are 
in long enough, and that the back arm scye is held in enough 
with a stay. Next, see that the pletes in skirt are straight and the 
fullness well pressed back ; also that a stay is properly run the full 
length of the plete. Then see that the front edges are held in faii\ 
— 7iot di'aivn in too much. Next, examine the sewing: and see that 
it is up to the standard, for which the price goxerns the quality. 
It costs no more to have buttons sewed on well than half waw 



38 



Directions for Making a D. B. Frock. 



In opening a "job" the "Jour." should see that all parts of the 
coat are in, and the trimmings all right. Then shrink canvas and 
haircloth, and put in marking threads. Fit the facings and linings. 
Stretch the sidebody to the length of forepart, and shrink in the 
centre to give it shape. Seam on sidebody and lapels. Now press 
sidebody seam, and the round on front into the breast. Now baste 
a stay on the bottom of sidebody, (wiiich keeps it from stretching 
when sewing on the skirt.) Now sew on the skirt, keeping the full- 
ness over the hips, (the more fullness worked in, that will press out, 
the better the skirt will hang.) Baste a stay across back at waist line, 
and also down plete off skirt, drawing in enough to press straight. 
Now sew on back, press waist seam and back, taking care to 
distribute the fullness forw^ard over the blades. Also press plete of 
skirt straight. Turn in plete of skirt to mark, and baste to a straight 
line on back skirt. Turn in back skirt for tacking, put in back skirt 
linings, and put in plete pockets. Now prepare canvas and haircloth, 
cutting canvass on the diagonal, so as to get the collar from the 
center on the bias.. Now fit canvas to forepart and bind the hair- 
cloth to the same. Pad the lapels and put on edge stay on the 
front, letting it run down into the skirt. Now press front and back skirt. 
Now cut out canvas from around button-holes and cover the holes 
with black silicia. Now put in interlining and wadding to fit and 



39 

baste facings in easy. Baste in skirt linings, overcast or turn in the 
edges (as the case may be.) Finish edge and put in button-holes. 
Fell the linings. Now sew shoulder seams and make sleeves, draw- 
ing in sleeve-head with a strong thread and press the fullness in. 
Now" put a stay from 2 inches forward of the shoulder seam around 
scye to sidebody seam, drawing in about 'f of an inch at the back- 
arm scye. Now baste in sleeves to notches, bringing the fullness 
of topside well to the front, and close at back-arm scye, and scatter 
the fullness of underside under the arm. Press sleeves. Cut a V 
in the canvas, haircloth, etc., in front of the scye, and put a V in 
the lining. Now tack facings to scye, taking care to get them in 
a trifle larger than the outside, and baste in sleeve linings, taking- 
care not to have them short. Also have them tacked down the 
back seam of sleeve. Fell sleeve linino-s and close the coat. Press 
back seam and put in back linings, taking great care to get them 
in wide enous^h on the shoulders and lono; enou"-h in the back. I^iit 
on collar, as per instructions, and press off and sew on buttons. Be 
careful and get linings easy, and remember an easy inside gives a 
smooth outside. 



40 



Making Vest. 



First. — Put in marking threads ; fit up the linings ; seam on the 
pocket welts ; press them out and make your pockets. Now baste 
on the wiggin, and tack the pockets through. Seam on the collar, 
and make up the edges and press. Put the facings and linings 
into forepart ; make up the back straps ; baste the straps on to the 
outside back. Then join the vest together, putting on the back easy 
on shoulders. Finish the back lining on to the collar. Fasten the 
back stays to the inside back lining. Put in the button-holes according 
to marks. Take out the baste, and it is ready for a press. In seam- 
ing the shoulder seams stretch them about h to the width of back. 
Also, stretch the scye as per O O O in Diagram 10. 



41 

Making Pants. 

First. — Put in marking- threads, taking care that the notches are 
together. Then baste on stays for pockets and crotch pieces. Now 
put on pocket facings, right fly, and facings on left forepart for fly. 
Press pocket facings and flys. Now stretch . foreparts from about 10 
inches up, down .J-inch, or to the length of undersides. Now baste 
both seams, and seam. Then put on waist-band, sewing in canvas 
(or stay) with it at the same time. Press and shrink the legs to style, 
creasing the foreparts ^-inch more to the outside. Now measure both 
legs and waist, make button-hole fly and back-strap, and put back- 
strap on with a linen stay underneath, and then stitch the flys. Now 
put in pockets and linen on button-hole fly. Baste up bottoms, press 
tops from the inside, and sponge from the outside. Mark waist buttons 
and put a stay underneath. Press bottoms, drawing in the "heel" 
with a stay, Ave or six inches long. Put on waist-band linings and 
curtains, join back, mark and put on fly buttons, press back seam. 
Finish curtains and waist lining. Now the pants are ready for press- 
ing oft'. 

A too straight seat will draw from seat to knee in going up stairs or 
sitting down, and lift oft' the foot, besides "kicking" back in walking. 

A too crooked seat will give an easy pant, but thev will wrinkle some 
under seat and top of thighs. 

Always keep notches fair, as cut. You cannot press a calf on the 
legs of pants, unless it is cut on, without producing horse-shoe wrinkles 
from knee to the bottom of back of leg. 

The directions for making coat, vest and pants are not intended to 
make practical mechafiics of an}' one, but only to assist those cutters 
who do not know how the garment progresses from the time it leaves 
their hands to the finish. 



42 




Outlets 



1 would recommend tlie outlets for coats as per dotted lines in 
Diagram 20. 

Outlet I will allow you to carry shoulder point forward, when making 
the front smaller, and, with 3, allows you to raise the collar in the 
neck. 

2 allows you to throw the shoulder back when making the coat 
larcjer in the breast. 

4 gives you more round on the blade. 

5 and 6 allows you to make the coat larger at breast or waist. 
Also leave an outlet on underside sleeve. 

In pants, if only one outlet besides the scat, let it be the outside 
seam, but where you have plenty of goods leave one on both in, and 
outside seam of underside. 

Vests, top of back, and side seam of back. 



43 

Practical Talk on Faults and Alterations of Coats. 



WHAT MAKEvS A COAT DRAW OR WRINKLE ON THE SHOULDER? 

This is a very common fault, and one easily remedied. I find few 
cutters who know the real reason. To those who do not, the price 
of this woi-k is nothing compared to the trouble this one thing will 
save you and your customers. The reason is, nine times out of ten, 
it is the linings, generally too short from G to K, or too narrow across 
the top of back, which draws the facings up, and makes them short. 
Now, when a coat wrinkles or draws on the shoulder, hang the coat 
on the left hand, and grasp the coat in front of left scye with the 
right hand and pull gently. If you see the wrinkles there, you may 
know it is the linings that cause the trouble, which is in the making, 
and not the cutting. So take your knife and rip the shoulder seam 
of the linings away free from the gorge, and across the shoulder and 
down to the forearm seam, and then try it the same way again, and the 
wrinkle will disappear. Now, if you have outlet enough in your 
facings, you are all right, but if not, put in a new back lining to meet 
the front. Small linings cause more trouble than anything I know of, 
so look out for it, and remember an easy inside gives a smooth 
outside. 

Sometimes a short collar will cause the coat to draw around the 
collar. When such is the case, a new collar must be made. (See 
article on Collars.) Always have a cut in canvas about 1 inch back 
of K, about 2 inches deep, to allow for spring on shoulders. A too 
short strap will not cause this trouble, as many suppose, but wrinkles, 
as per 5, 6 and 7 in Diagram 15. 

In overcoats, instead of one plete down the middle ot back, ha\'e 
two about six or eight inches apart, three or four inches each side ot 
the center. 



44 




What makes a Coat Wrinkle from Front of Scye to Natural 
Walst, as 5, 6 and 7 in Diagram 15? Too short a strap. To 
remedy it, if 3'ou have not an outlet on top of shoulder, sink the scye 
and shorten your back. 

Diagram 15. — Always have a stay put on back sc3^e from A to B, 
and have it held in a good f-inch and pressed over the blade. Also 
have a stay put on sidebody from 2 to 3, held fair. Fullness of skirt 
should be distributed between 3 and 4. 

When a Coat Strikes Hard on the Hips, or has not spring 
enough at S, Diagram 1. Shorten the back, as per Diagram 17, and 
sink the back ^ as much, and it will have a pleasing effect. 

In measuring the breast, place the tape (^not draw if) on the most 
prominent part of the blades, and measure over the chest. If you 
draw the tape it will give 30U your coats too small. I would advise 
taking the breast measure three times to insure a correct measure. 




DIAGRAM 16. 

This is a common fault, a good many do not understand, so I will 
try by the diagram to illustrate a coat bulging at neck, as at I and 2 
in a high roll coat. It is caused — first, by a long collar, and second, 
by not being held in enough with a stay fi-om O to A, (Diagram 7,) 
and too crooked a shoulder. 

DIAGRAM 17. 

This shows the alteration to make when a coat is too deep in 
arm scye, which lifts the whole coat up. 

WHAT MAKES A COAT "RIDE" UP IN THE NECK? 

First. — Too deep in arm-hole. Second. — Too short from G to W, 
Diagram 1, or wadded too much, causing the coat to "lift" up. It 
too deep in scye, the only alteration is to shorten shoulder from K 
to W, and also the back from A A to N, and drop the A the same 
distance as at K. (See Alterations in Diagram 17.) 
WHAT MAKES A COAT BREAK IN FRONT OF SCYE ? 

First. — Too straight a shoulder. Second. — Too shallow a scye. 
Third. — Too short a blade. If the first and second comment is un- 
necessary ; if the third opens the coat at sidebody seam all the way 
down alike, using outlets 5 and 6 in Diagram 20. 

WHAT MAKES A COAT FULL BACK OF SCYE? 

First. — Too much round on blade. Second. — Back scye hollowed 
too much or not drawn in as it should be w^ith a stay. Too much 
length of shoulder at W, and a deep scye. 

Do not hollow the gorge more than ^-inch from line from F to D. 
Diagram 7. 



46 





TO ALTER A COAT THAT IS TOO LARGE OR TOO SMALL 

IN THE BREAST. 

When from i to 1 inch too large, commence at W, and carry sc3'e 
forward ^ the required amount, and take in side seam the same, but 
when over 1 inch too large, I would recommend the alteration, as per 
dotted lines in Diagram 19, which retains the original bearings of the 
coat. When i-inch small on breast, letting out side seam may answer, 
but the more successful way, when 1 inch or more too small, would 
be to carry the shoulder back, just the reverse of the alteration in 
Diagram 19, using outlets Nos. 2, 5 and 6 in Diagram 20. Letting 
the coat out at side seam, and not throwing shoulders back, lets the 
cloth go back on to the blades, but throwing the shoulders back with 
letting out side seam, lets the forepart forward. 

Measuring is one of the most important parts of successful 
cutting. 

WHAT MAKES A COAT FALL OFF THE NECK ? 

First. — Too long a collar (Dia. 16.) Second. — Too crooked a shoulder. 



47 

WHAT MAKES A COAT HANG OFF THE WAIST ? 
A short back from A to B. A long strap from G to |. Some- 
times because too much spring at S. (See Stooping Form.) Some- 
times sidebody from 2 to 3 is stretched to I , as per dotted lines 
in Diagram 15, when it ought to be held in with a stay from 2 to 
3 in making. 

WHAT MAKES A SLEEVE DRAG WHEN THE ARM IS 

BROUGHT FORWARD? 
First. — Because a too short under-sleeve from B to D (Diagram 5.) 
Second. — The under-sleeve may be hollowed too much at O (Diagram 
6.) Third. — Or the back scye may be hollowed too much between 
B and E (Diagram 1.) Fourth. — A too narrow back and too large 
or deep scye. If for tirst and second reasons, it can be remedied 
by the following alteration : Cut off top and forearm sleeve, as per 
diagram 18, and lengthen sleeve as much as you lower the forearm 
seam. The third may be remedied by letting the under-sleeve out. 
If the fourth, let out side-seam, and under-sleeve also. Comment on 
the last unnecessary. (See article on why a coat " rides " up in 
the neck.) 

WHAT MAKES A COAT TOO TIGHT IN SCYE.? 
First. — Too short blade. Second. — A too small under-sleeve (causing 
a draw.) Third. — Too shallow scye. Fourth. — Canvas, haircloth, etc., 
are not cut in front scye, and a V put in the linings. Fifth. — A too 
narrow back will have the effect of contracting the scye when arms 
are brought forward. 

THE BEARINGS OF A COAT 

Is the relative position of the shoulder point to the front of scye, as 
from I to G in Diagram 1. If I is carried forward and G remains 
the same, it straio:htens the shoulder. And when G is carried forward 
and I remains the same, it makes the shoulder more crooked. So 
when you carry one forward you should both, thereby retaining the 
balance of your coat. 



48 

Recapitulation. 
•-♦-• 

Look out for short facings and small linings. 

See that back scye is held in enough. 

Always have a V put in linings front of scye. 

Do not get D. B. Frocks small in the waist. 

Always have the plete in back skirt straight when finished, and the 
round pressed back into the skirt. 

Remember an easy inside gives a smoof/i outside. 

Try and not get strap measure too long, as it will let the coat off 
the waist. 

Keep front line of vest as straight as possible. 

Vests should fit without the aid of a back-strap. 

Do not have the fullness of the sleeve-head worked too high up. 

Always have a plete in the sidebody seam of your linings as well 
as in the back. 

Measure waist for a three or four button cutaway quite loose. 

The fronts of pants are cut .^-inch shorter than the back parts to 
keep them from swinging back when walking, as well as to give full- 
ness over the calf. 

Do not take blade measure tight. 

Commit schedule on page 7 to memory. 



Loose Coats. 



To give a man a very easy coat, measure the same as for any other 
customer, and make the following changes in the pattern : First. — 
Give him one or two sizes wider back. Carry forward scye and 
shoulder point K, say .^-inch, and add the same on the breast in 
front. (This opens your coat, keeping the points of balance un- 
changed.) Give special directions to have the back-arm scye held 
in with a stay. All that the goods will allow to be pressed out, 
and this will give you a coat that will more than please you and 
your customer. 



i 



